In the biggest commemorative parachute drop at Arnhem since the War, almost 1,000 Forces parachutists last weekend jumped on to the original site that launched Operation Market Garden, to mark the 65th Anniversary of the Battle of Arnhem in Holland.
Jumping from a fleet of giant Hercules aircraft, members of the Parachute Regiment joined Dutch, Polish and US soldiers in wave after wave of parachute drops, in front of a delighted audience of tens of thousands of British and Dutch visitors and Allied Forces representatives, both serving and retired.
Adding to the spectacle, historic aircraft of the Royal Netherlands Air Force Historical Flight Foundation flew low passes overhead, while a vintage Dakota aircraft – the type that flew the original soldiers in – disgorged yet more jumpers.
The mass jump was staged in sweltering September sunshine at Ginkel Heath, the original drop zone for Market Garden.
The 1944 attack was the largest airborne operation of all time, aimed at seizing bridges across the Maas and Rhine. One element of it saw 12,000 British and Polish parachutists and glider borne troops of the 1st Airborne Division fight their way into Arnhem to capture the city’s main bridge across the Rhine, paving the way for a rapid Allied advance.
Immortalised in the film ‘A Bridge Too Far’, Market Garden saw initial success as Lieutenant Colonel John Frost’s 2nd Battalion reached the bridge. However German troops, spearheaded by the 2nd SS Panzerdivision, staged a dramatic fight back and recaptured the bridge. US bombers later destroyed it to deny its use to the Germans, but it was replaced with a similar bridge and renamed John Frost Bridge. The rest of the Division, trapped in a small pocket west of the bridge, had to be evacuated.
In all, around 8,000 Allied soldiers were killed, wounded or taken prisoner.
The Battle of Arnhem is commemorated in fitting style every year with numerous wreathlaying ceremonies, but this year’s 65th Anniversary had extra significance.
Some 600 serving soldiers of the Parachute Regiment travelled to Arnhem, both to stage the parachute drop and take part in the formal activities, representing all four Battalions of the Regiment.
Over 140 Arnhem Veterans, many representing the Arnhem Veterans Association, travelled from UK to join in the commemorations, and one of their number launched the day by firing a historic field gun to call in the first jumpers.
Following the first Mass Drop, a hush fell on the scene as the traditional Airborne Commemoration took place at the Airborne Monument, when British, Dutch and Polish representatives laid wreaths in honour of their fallen warriors and civilians.
Speaking on behalf of the Parachute Regiment at the formal wreathlaying, Lieutenant Colonel Alistair Rogers, 4th Battalion Commanding Officer, paid tribute to all those who took part in Market Garden: “We are here to honour those who fell, but our commitment to peace continues in today’s struggles. Both sides incurred heavy casualties but also showed great heroism. The operation did not come to an end – the resistance shown by the brave Dutch people ensured that it continued, when they fed and sheltered the Allied soldiers who remained behind. That forged an unbreakable bond that could not be stronger today.”
Ginkel Heath was not the only scene of commemorations. Arnhem city centre, too, was alive with ceremonial activities, and numerous wreaths were laid at the Allied War Cemetery at Oosterbeek, and the Memorial alongside the Airborne Museum. These included wreaths laid by Major General Nick Caplin Army Air Corps, GOC UKSC, in tribute to the Glider Pilot Regiment, and by Group Captain Michael Lavender, Deputy Commander European Support Group, on behalf of the RAF.
Commemorations were also attended by HRH The Duke of Edinburgh and Defence Secretary Bob Ainsworth, while Forces schoolchildren from Rheindahlen placed flowers on Allied graves.
In a colourful and festive atmosphere that lightened the more formal proceedings, Arnhem was a real ‘trip down memory lane’ as hundreds of re-enactment enthusiasts turned out to entertain the crowds, clad in authentic WW2 uniforms and driving scores of immaculately preserved vintage military vehicles.
Now resplendent after a year long refit, the Airborne Museum used the occasion to re-open its doors and welcomed visitors back inside. Situated in the former Hartenstein Hotel, used as an HQ by Divisional Commander, Major General Roy Urquhart, the museum’s numerous artefacts and exhibits bring the grim conflict vividly to life. Moreover, visitors can now ‘live the battle’ with a trip through the brand new ‘Arnhem Experience’ sound and light display.
However, for the many Veterans who come back to Arnhem year after year, no reminders are needed of their often shocking experiences, and this year was no exception.
Typical among them is ex Bombardier Shamus Miles, now 86, from Forest Hill. Serving with the 2nd Air Landing Anti Tank Battery, he reached Arnhem in ’44 by glider, and returns every year. He said: “This is by far the biggest commemoration I have ever seen. It is always very poignant and we receive a fantastic welcome from our Dutch hosts. The battle was an unforgettable experience – the glider next to mine was flipped over and probably everyone aboard killed. I fought my way through the houses and loads of my mates died. But I made it back across the Rhine and finally home.” Arnhem was not the end of Shamus’s war, with more fighting ahead of him in Italy.
Ex Sergeant Harry Houghton, 91, of ‘10 Para’ and Mentioned in Dispatches, also had a dramatic story to tell: “Having parachuted in on Day 2, there was firing all around me. I was hit by shrapnel while trying to hook a gun onto a jeep. But a leather wallet given me by my sister took most of it – it undoubtedly saved my life! After being taken POW I was finally liberated by the Russians in Odessa.”
Harry has left a lasting legacy to his comrades who did not survive Arnhem. Local artist Fransje Povel Speleers drew on Harry’s and others’ dramatic experiences to create a unique ‘terracota’ tableau depicting the fallen emerging from their Arnhem graves and returning to life in their full glory. This moving exhibition is in the Oosterbeek Town Hall until early 2010 (see Frasje’s website: www.povel-speleers.nl for more information).
One of the high points of this year’s British Forces involvement was ‘Exercise Ration Drop 09’. The brainchild of WO1 (SSM) Paul Carpenter, ‘Ration Drop 09’ was an epic long distance run from Colchester to Arnhem in aid of the Army Benevolent Fund. 16 Army caterers from 16 Air Assault Brigade covered 108 miles over four days. “The Dutch have been fantastic hosts”, said Paul, “giving us free accommodation and refreshments along the way. Two members of our team even managed to join the mass parachute drop. We’re on course to hit our target of £2,000.”
A beautiful and now peaceful city, Arnhem abounds with museums and exhibitions starkly evoking the operation, and welcomes visitors wishing to understand for themselves the battle fought for the city’s liberation. |